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Retinoid Myth Busting

Retinoids are one of the most researched and effective ingredients in skincare—but they’ve also picked up a lot of myths along the way. This week, we’re setting the record straight on some of the most common retinoid rumors we hear in clinic and online.

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MYTH 01: You need to stop using retinoids in the summer.

FALSE

You can use retinoids year-round—it just comes down to smart sun protection. While retinoids can make your skin slightly more sun-sensitive, as long as you're using SPF daily (which you should be doing anyway), there’s no reason to hit pause during warmer months. In fact, consistency is key for seeing long-term results.

MYTH 02: Retinoids must be applied to completely dry skin.

IT DEPENDS.

This one isn’t black and white. The idea behind applying retinoids to dry skin is to reduce how quickly and deeply the product absorbs, which can help minimize irritation—especially if you're just starting out or have sensitive skin.

But here's the thing: damp skin absorbs products more effectively, which can actually boost your results once your skin has built up tolerance. So if you've been using your retinoid consistently with little to no irritation, applying it to slightly damp skin (post-toner or essence, for example) can help your skin get even more out of the ingredient.

Just remember—more absorption = more potency, so go slow and listen to your skin. If you’re dealing with redness or flaking, dial it back and stick to the dry skin rule for a bit longer.

MYTH 03: Retinoids thin your skin.

FALSE.

This myth usually comes from “experts” who are only looking at part of the picture—and not the part that really matters.

Yes, retinoids thin the outermost layer of skin—but that layer is made up of dead skin cells, and thinning it is actually a good thing. Retinoids speed up cell turnover, helping your skin shed dull, damaged cells more efficiently. That’s what gives your skin that smoother, fresher glow.

But here’s the important part: retinoids actually thicken the deeper layers of your skin, where long-term skin health and structure live. They boost collagen, improve elasticity, and strengthen the dermis—the foundational layer that keeps your skin firm and resilient.

So while they’re gently exfoliating the surface, they’re simultaneously working below to build stronger, healthier skin. In the long run, retinoids help your skin function better and look younger—not thinner or weaker.

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MYTH 04: Retinoids should be avoided if you have sensitive skin.

FALSE.

Having sensitive skin doesn’t mean retinoids are off-limits—it just means you need the right product and the right approach.

Start with a gentle, well-tolerated option like retinaldehyde (think Ret+), which delivers powerful results with minimal irritation. Buffer it with a moisturizer—meaning, apply your moisturizer before your retinoid to create a protective barrier. Go slow with application (2–3 nights a week to start), and give your skin time to adjust.

With the right routine, even sensitive skin can thrive on retinoids—and reap the long-term benefits like improved texture, tone, and collagen support.

Retinoid Myth Busting

Retinoid Myth Busting

Think retinoids are only for winter? That they thin your skin or aren’t safe for sensitive types? Let’s set the record straight. In this myth-busting blog, Blair breaks down the...

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